ANCHORING ???
- Thread starter paz
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BayTrawlerGuy
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Well, there's a lot to learn here.
As a starting point on anchoring techniques generally, I suggest you take a look at some of the topics in the West Advisor, a series of articles posted by West Marine. You can find them at:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/WestAdvisorListView
Overall, the most important thing to remember about anchors is that they work when pulling (nearly) horizontally, meaning that you need to put out 5 to 7 times as much rope/chain as the distance from the attachment point on your boat to the bottom of the water. If you only put out 1 times the distance, you're pulling the anchor vertically, and that's how you get it to release from the bottom and let you go.
In the California Delta, as in many other places, anchoring can get crowded. Since if you have 50' of anchor rode out, you'll swing in a 100' circle, you need to be aware of this. If all boats have the same amount of rode out, they will swing (more or less) together during wind and current shifts and hopefully bump only a little bit. If boats have different lenths out, they may well collide if the wind or current shifts.
Many folks may approach land, tie to a tree (or set an anchor on land) and also set an anchor in the water to hold them off the land. This water anchor can be set either when approaching the land (tricky) or by taking it out in a dinghy after tying to the land. (If no dinghy, maybe you can swim it out, but put the anchor on a life preserver or two lest it anchor YOU to the bottom.)
Another thought--you could either consult with a professional captain or friend about your first few trips. Additionally, you might consider taking a boating safety course. Several are offered by the US Coast Guard Auxilliary and US Power Squadrons.
BTG
As a starting point on anchoring techniques generally, I suggest you take a look at some of the topics in the West Advisor, a series of articles posted by West Marine. You can find them at:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/WestAdvisorListView
Overall, the most important thing to remember about anchors is that they work when pulling (nearly) horizontally, meaning that you need to put out 5 to 7 times as much rope/chain as the distance from the attachment point on your boat to the bottom of the water. If you only put out 1 times the distance, you're pulling the anchor vertically, and that's how you get it to release from the bottom and let you go.
In the California Delta, as in many other places, anchoring can get crowded. Since if you have 50' of anchor rode out, you'll swing in a 100' circle, you need to be aware of this. If all boats have the same amount of rode out, they will swing (more or less) together during wind and current shifts and hopefully bump only a little bit. If boats have different lenths out, they may well collide if the wind or current shifts.
Many folks may approach land, tie to a tree (or set an anchor on land) and also set an anchor in the water to hold them off the land. This water anchor can be set either when approaching the land (tricky) or by taking it out in a dinghy after tying to the land. (If no dinghy, maybe you can swim it out, but put the anchor on a life preserver or two lest it anchor YOU to the bottom.)
Another thought--you could either consult with a professional captain or friend about your first few trips. Additionally, you might consider taking a boating safety course. Several are offered by the US Coast Guard Auxilliary and US Power Squadrons.
BTG
There are a lot of ways to anchor in the Delta, so hang on and wait for the posts to add up. There are also lot of experienced Delta boaters here who use different gear and methods.
My boat is a restored wooden 26' cruiser. No windlass or roller so I anchor by hand by myself or with help at the helm when I've got it.
A lot of Delta boaters don't use a main anchor but simply tie off the bow to a tule berm or bank and set out a stern anchor to keep the boat lined up.
I like to anchor out further into the water, out in the breeze and away from the mosquitos and other bugs.
I use a 16 lb. Danforth Standard anchor, a swivel, a boat length of heavy 3B chain and quality Samson ProSet 3-strand nylon anchor line with rode markers. I also have a secondary anchor and rode (rode can be chain plus line, all line, or all chain) that I can use for a stern anchor. My main anchor is two sizes too large for the boat. That oversizing gives me insurance in storms and gale force wind.
Anchor in about 10 feet of water or more. I've anchored in less water, too. If you anchor in less than 8 feet of water you increase the chance of running into weeds on the bottom. Weeds can make anchoring impossible, especially with a Danforth-style anchor. Other anchor types can be better in weeds. I just like the holding power in mud and ease of stowing the Danforth.
Pick your anchor spot. Use your depth sounder to determine the depth and remember it. Be aware that water current and wind will cause the boat to drift while you are anchoring. I often pick my spot and then drive the boat upwind or up current a little so that the boat drifts onto target by the time I lower the anchor. Leave the engine running during anchoring.
Lower the anchor slow enough so it doesn't get tangled on the way down. Never just toss a Danforth overboard and hope for the best. Pay out the rode as the boat drifts away from the anchor. Let out enough rode for a 7 to 1 scope. This is called full scope. Always set a Danforth anchor at full scope. Full scope means that you have seven feet of rode out for every foot of anchor depth + the distance from the waterline to your chock. So, if you have the anchor in 10 feet of water plus four feet between chock and waterline: you have 14 X 7 or 98' of rode for full scope. Full scope is where maximum holding power begins for a Danforth anchor.
When you have drifted or backed the boat to full scope, cleat off the rode. I'll let the anchor set like that for a couple of minutes then test the anchor by giving it a few tugs. If it feels like the anchor is set, then I'll go to the helm and give the boat a couple of good pulls with the engine in reverse. That sets the anchor by making it plow deep into the mud.
Make a visual check of how the boat is positioned then wait an hour to see if the anchor slips. If it hasn't slipped then I'll take my choice of a few more steps. If no other boats are in my way I'll just leave things as they are at full scope and let the boat swing freely at anchor. When wind is gusting 15-35 MPH I want full scope and maybe a little more. If the wind is calm, I may haul in some of the rode and let the boat stay at 4 or 5 to 1 scope. I also have the option of setting out a stern anchor if I want to limit the swing of the boat. That happens pretty often in popular anchorages
The boat length of chain (30 ft., actually) allows me to use less scope than if I was using 10 ft. of chain, it absorbs shock on the rode and cleat and it helps at slack current. At slack current the boat can be pushed around in all sorts of directions by the slightest wind or eddy in the water. The boat can do a 360 in slack current. If you have short chain the rode can foul or turn the anchor causing it to break free from the bottom. Then your boat will start dragging anchor and difting off to who knows where. If you have a boat length or more chain at slack current the boat will circle around the end of the outstretched chain and the anchor stays free and set. The anchor swivel helps keep the rode from twisting, too.
I've seen lots of boats drag anchor in the Delta. About 90% of them were using way too little scope on the anchor.
Weighing anchor with a Danforth is easy. Have the engine running and pull in the rode until the bow of the boat is directly over the anchor. Put a steady pull on the rode. That pull should be a little more pull than you would need to lift the rode and anchor off the bottom. Hold that pull about 20 seconds and the Danforth anchor will just pop out of the mud.
During my first couple of seasons I used to wake up every two or three hours to check the anchor. Now I usually sleep all night without waking up. Some people feel better sleeping at anchor after setting the shallow water alarm on the depth sounder or a drift alarm on their GPS. I'll admit to setting a shallow water alarm on a couple of wild nights.
My boat is a restored wooden 26' cruiser. No windlass or roller so I anchor by hand by myself or with help at the helm when I've got it.
A lot of Delta boaters don't use a main anchor but simply tie off the bow to a tule berm or bank and set out a stern anchor to keep the boat lined up.
I like to anchor out further into the water, out in the breeze and away from the mosquitos and other bugs.
I use a 16 lb. Danforth Standard anchor, a swivel, a boat length of heavy 3B chain and quality Samson ProSet 3-strand nylon anchor line with rode markers. I also have a secondary anchor and rode (rode can be chain plus line, all line, or all chain) that I can use for a stern anchor. My main anchor is two sizes too large for the boat. That oversizing gives me insurance in storms and gale force wind.
Anchor in about 10 feet of water or more. I've anchored in less water, too. If you anchor in less than 8 feet of water you increase the chance of running into weeds on the bottom. Weeds can make anchoring impossible, especially with a Danforth-style anchor. Other anchor types can be better in weeds. I just like the holding power in mud and ease of stowing the Danforth.
Pick your anchor spot. Use your depth sounder to determine the depth and remember it. Be aware that water current and wind will cause the boat to drift while you are anchoring. I often pick my spot and then drive the boat upwind or up current a little so that the boat drifts onto target by the time I lower the anchor. Leave the engine running during anchoring.
Lower the anchor slow enough so it doesn't get tangled on the way down. Never just toss a Danforth overboard and hope for the best. Pay out the rode as the boat drifts away from the anchor. Let out enough rode for a 7 to 1 scope. This is called full scope. Always set a Danforth anchor at full scope. Full scope means that you have seven feet of rode out for every foot of anchor depth + the distance from the waterline to your chock. So, if you have the anchor in 10 feet of water plus four feet between chock and waterline: you have 14 X 7 or 98' of rode for full scope. Full scope is where maximum holding power begins for a Danforth anchor.
When you have drifted or backed the boat to full scope, cleat off the rode. I'll let the anchor set like that for a couple of minutes then test the anchor by giving it a few tugs. If it feels like the anchor is set, then I'll go to the helm and give the boat a couple of good pulls with the engine in reverse. That sets the anchor by making it plow deep into the mud.
Make a visual check of how the boat is positioned then wait an hour to see if the anchor slips. If it hasn't slipped then I'll take my choice of a few more steps. If no other boats are in my way I'll just leave things as they are at full scope and let the boat swing freely at anchor. When wind is gusting 15-35 MPH I want full scope and maybe a little more. If the wind is calm, I may haul in some of the rode and let the boat stay at 4 or 5 to 1 scope. I also have the option of setting out a stern anchor if I want to limit the swing of the boat. That happens pretty often in popular anchorages
The boat length of chain (30 ft., actually) allows me to use less scope than if I was using 10 ft. of chain, it absorbs shock on the rode and cleat and it helps at slack current. At slack current the boat can be pushed around in all sorts of directions by the slightest wind or eddy in the water. The boat can do a 360 in slack current. If you have short chain the rode can foul or turn the anchor causing it to break free from the bottom. Then your boat will start dragging anchor and difting off to who knows where. If you have a boat length or more chain at slack current the boat will circle around the end of the outstretched chain and the anchor stays free and set. The anchor swivel helps keep the rode from twisting, too.
I've seen lots of boats drag anchor in the Delta. About 90% of them were using way too little scope on the anchor.
Weighing anchor with a Danforth is easy. Have the engine running and pull in the rode until the bow of the boat is directly over the anchor. Put a steady pull on the rode. That pull should be a little more pull than you would need to lift the rode and anchor off the bottom. Hold that pull about 20 seconds and the Danforth anchor will just pop out of the mud.
During my first couple of seasons I used to wake up every two or three hours to check the anchor. Now I usually sleep all night without waking up. Some people feel better sleeping at anchor after setting the shallow water alarm on the depth sounder or a drift alarm on their GPS. I'll admit to setting a shallow water alarm on a couple of wild nights.
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Popular anchorages have a north/south running levees, high enough to protect you from the afternoon westerlies. A good example of this would be Three River Reach. Many anchorage have lines pre tied off of trees. Scrutinize these ties ups. Many of the anchorages, deep in the delta have no discernible tides. Others, such as Three River Reach are calm most of the time, then have a surge when the tide changes direction. Our entire raft up got moved down the reach approximately 40'. Most of the reason our raft up moved was that some of our anchors were sitting on top of the weed beds. The old timers used heavier anchors and let them settle on the bottom before trying to set them. Those of us with lighter anchors pulled up clumps of weeds each time we tried to set the anchor. We got started with the deltabaylinerclub dot org . A group of smiling boat owners helped us get rafted up.
Generally speaking, anchoring in the delta is easier than down in the bay. You get an 8 knot current going through Ayala Cove, when the winter tides are happening. You need to be anchored or moored bow and stern. One technique we use. We run the line through the mooring ball and have it return to the boat. When we want to release from the mooring, we just untie one side of the line from the boat and pull the line through the mooring eye.
When trying to catch a mooring ball, Draw your bow line to the aft deck, catch the ball at the at the aft deck where it's lower. Never hang off the bow trying to hook one of these balls. Another useful tool is the happy hooker. It threads lines through a mooring eye fairly well.
Generally speaking, anchoring in the delta is easier than down in the bay. You get an 8 knot current going through Ayala Cove, when the winter tides are happening. You need to be anchored or moored bow and stern. One technique we use. We run the line through the mooring ball and have it return to the boat. When we want to release from the mooring, we just untie one side of the line from the boat and pull the line through the mooring eye.
When trying to catch a mooring ball, Draw your bow line to the aft deck, catch the ball at the at the aft deck where it's lower. Never hang off the bow trying to hook one of these balls. Another useful tool is the happy hooker. It threads lines through a mooring eye fairly well.
Actually, tidal influence goes all the way up to Sacramento at the I Street Bridge. One time I anchored along the west bank of the Sac across from Old Sac during high tide. When I came back to my boat is was high and dry muddie with the entire boat out of the water. The water had receded at least 20 ft due to the tide change! I had to wade through horrible yukky mud up to my knees to get to the boat and board, then try to wash off my feet and legs before climbing in to go to sleep. Having imbibed waaay too much didn't help......but that's another story!
I am guessing that Monterey10 was referring to current vs. height. In many areas there can be a significant current that reverses direction with the tide while other areas there is no significant current to deal with. The water level, however, will rise and fall.
PAZ: Does your Carver have a windlass and chain locker? If so then anchoring can be an easy task once you get set up and learn how.
I had a 36' Carver and the anchor that worked best for me was a 30 lbs. "Bruce" on 30' of chain. More chain is always better but I recommend at least 30' to ensure that the chain is engaged in the windlass when you need to break the anchor free of the bottom.
A Danforth style anchor is much lighter and better for manual deployment & retreival. IF you can get them to set they will hold as well or better than anything else. The problem is that they foul very easily in weeds or very soft bottoms. I always used the heavy Bruce on the bow and a Danforth with ~15 of chain for the stern.
If you have the luxury of swinging on just one anchor then the process is easy: just lower the anchor until it reaches the bottom. Let out about 4 times that much line then cleat if off. Back down, pull the line tight and set it. You should be able to tug fairly hard in reverse and not have the anchor budge. Now let out another 3 or 4 "water depth" amount of line and cleat it off again, you're all set. Note that it helps a lot to have markers in your anchor line to indicated exactly how much line you have out.
My experience in the Delta is that you rarely have the room to swing. The prevailing wind will be from the north west but it will usually reverse direction during the night so you must allow for that. I usually set bow and stern anchors. The method I like to use is this:
Actually, before I explain the method let me give you some advice: Your bow anchor line should be long, preferably twice as long as your stern line. You should have the bitter end tied to something in the chain locker. Some chain lockers have a ring for this purpose or you can simply tie the bitter end to a block of wood too big to come out through the deck fitting. If you don't have the bitter end tied then there is a major risk that a well intentioned but un-informed guest/deckhand will deploy all your line and you will lose your anchor and rode.
Next bit of advice: If the bitter end is tied, ALWAYS have a knife on hand capable of cutting the anchor line. I have gotten myself into a bad situation where I the anchor was hooked on something that wasn't coming up and I had to get out of the spot I was in. When things are going from bad to worse you don't want to be searching for a knife. Tie a fender to the anchor line, cut it free and come back for it later.
Now, the way I anchor with a windlass: Pick your spot, shallow is better but you don't want to drop the anchor in the weeds, which can get very thick in the shallower water. You also want to make sure that there will be sufficient water depth at low tide to get back to it. Approach your spot heading dead into the wind. Lower the anchor, let out a scope of 3 to 4, cleat it off and tug on it to set it. Uncleat and let the wind push you back until you are close to then end of your anchor line. Adjust position, left/right so that you are directly downwind from your bow anchor and lower the stern anchor. Now pull back on your bow anchor until you reach the bitter end of your stern line (which should be cleated off before you lower the anchor). Use the engine to tug on the stern line, make sure it sets. Now cleat off the bow and you should be set.
Getting under way again is essentially the reverse. Let out the bow line while pulling back or let the wind push you back. If you use engines be very careful as there is a major risk of wrapping the anchor line in a prop. When you are approximately over the stern anchor cleat the line off and then use the engines to pull forward. It shouldn't take much force but it might take 10 seconds or more of steady pull. On essentially zero scope the anchor should pull free fairly easily, even in the forward direction. Be prepared for some major mud on the chain and anchor as it comes up. Take your time, you should not be in a hurry at this point. Once the stern anchor is in and safely stowed start working on the bow. Do NOT use the windlass to pull you all the way up to the anchor, you may overheat it. Use the engines to take the strain off the line so the windlass is basically running without a load. Get as close to overhead as you can, hopefully with the chain engaged in the windlass. Now use the engines to push foward to pull the anchor free, do NOT use the windlass to pull straight up. Once the anchor breaks free raise it up about half way and back out to deeper water. This will rinse the majority of the mud off the anchor and chain. Now raise it the rest of the way and secure it. Note: I highly recommend that you use an additional line to secure the anchor in its spot, do not rely on the windlass to hold it there while under way. I have seen anchors accidentially release and the results can be expensive....
Rod
PAZ: Does your Carver have a windlass and chain locker? If so then anchoring can be an easy task once you get set up and learn how.
I had a 36' Carver and the anchor that worked best for me was a 30 lbs. "Bruce" on 30' of chain. More chain is always better but I recommend at least 30' to ensure that the chain is engaged in the windlass when you need to break the anchor free of the bottom.
A Danforth style anchor is much lighter and better for manual deployment & retreival. IF you can get them to set they will hold as well or better than anything else. The problem is that they foul very easily in weeds or very soft bottoms. I always used the heavy Bruce on the bow and a Danforth with ~15 of chain for the stern.
If you have the luxury of swinging on just one anchor then the process is easy: just lower the anchor until it reaches the bottom. Let out about 4 times that much line then cleat if off. Back down, pull the line tight and set it. You should be able to tug fairly hard in reverse and not have the anchor budge. Now let out another 3 or 4 "water depth" amount of line and cleat it off again, you're all set. Note that it helps a lot to have markers in your anchor line to indicated exactly how much line you have out.
My experience in the Delta is that you rarely have the room to swing. The prevailing wind will be from the north west but it will usually reverse direction during the night so you must allow for that. I usually set bow and stern anchors. The method I like to use is this:
Actually, before I explain the method let me give you some advice: Your bow anchor line should be long, preferably twice as long as your stern line. You should have the bitter end tied to something in the chain locker. Some chain lockers have a ring for this purpose or you can simply tie the bitter end to a block of wood too big to come out through the deck fitting. If you don't have the bitter end tied then there is a major risk that a well intentioned but un-informed guest/deckhand will deploy all your line and you will lose your anchor and rode.
Next bit of advice: If the bitter end is tied, ALWAYS have a knife on hand capable of cutting the anchor line. I have gotten myself into a bad situation where I the anchor was hooked on something that wasn't coming up and I had to get out of the spot I was in. When things are going from bad to worse you don't want to be searching for a knife. Tie a fender to the anchor line, cut it free and come back for it later.
Now, the way I anchor with a windlass: Pick your spot, shallow is better but you don't want to drop the anchor in the weeds, which can get very thick in the shallower water. You also want to make sure that there will be sufficient water depth at low tide to get back to it. Approach your spot heading dead into the wind. Lower the anchor, let out a scope of 3 to 4, cleat it off and tug on it to set it. Uncleat and let the wind push you back until you are close to then end of your anchor line. Adjust position, left/right so that you are directly downwind from your bow anchor and lower the stern anchor. Now pull back on your bow anchor until you reach the bitter end of your stern line (which should be cleated off before you lower the anchor). Use the engine to tug on the stern line, make sure it sets. Now cleat off the bow and you should be set.
Getting under way again is essentially the reverse. Let out the bow line while pulling back or let the wind push you back. If you use engines be very careful as there is a major risk of wrapping the anchor line in a prop. When you are approximately over the stern anchor cleat the line off and then use the engines to pull forward. It shouldn't take much force but it might take 10 seconds or more of steady pull. On essentially zero scope the anchor should pull free fairly easily, even in the forward direction. Be prepared for some major mud on the chain and anchor as it comes up. Take your time, you should not be in a hurry at this point. Once the stern anchor is in and safely stowed start working on the bow. Do NOT use the windlass to pull you all the way up to the anchor, you may overheat it. Use the engines to take the strain off the line so the windlass is basically running without a load. Get as close to overhead as you can, hopefully with the chain engaged in the windlass. Now use the engines to push foward to pull the anchor free, do NOT use the windlass to pull straight up. Once the anchor breaks free raise it up about half way and back out to deeper water. This will rinse the majority of the mud off the anchor and chain. Now raise it the rest of the way and secure it. Note: I highly recommend that you use an additional line to secure the anchor in its spot, do not rely on the windlass to hold it there while under way. I have seen anchors accidentially release and the results can be expensive....
Rod
Well, Rod, to each his own. I basically do just the opposite. I drop my stern anchor, holding it over my shoulder as I ease the bow into position and drop the bow anchor from the helm. Then I shut off the engine and pull back on the stern line until my boat is positioned where I want it [enough scope off bow, away from mosquito ridden tules]. Then I set the bow and stern anchors, and secure each to cleats. When I'm ready to leave I slack off on the stern rode so I can bring the boat to the bow anchor. After the bow anchor is secured, I haul in the stern anchor, stopping to fire up my engine, then rinse and stow the anchor. This allows me to start my engine in deep water.
As you can see, Paz, there is more then one way to skin a cat or anchor a boat! You will find what works best for you.
As you can see, Paz, there is more then one way to skin a cat or anchor a boat! You will find what works best for you.
- Joined
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The people that I learned from, would drop a stern anchor and slowly creap towards the levee while playing out the stern line. (watch your props) Then, the skipper would tie off the stern line, then run the dinghy around to the bow and take the bow line to the tie off. (tree, tire swing, existing line and float) This works well in dead calm waters. I had a buddy that was fighting with a bow line and the boat backed down on the stern line. The props on his inboard were turning slowly, so his props wrapped up the stern line. They had to draw straws as to who on board was going to dive under the boat.
When we were up at Mandevil tip or the Three River reach, it was dead calm for most of the day, then, when you were least expecting it, the tide took off at 5 or 6 knots for about an hour. You want to watch for the rental house boats. Most, with their amature crews, will be drifting down the reach.
It seems like any of the waters that are 8' or less will have a heavy carpet of weeds on the bottom. This is where you throw out your heavier iron, let is settle a bit, then pull on it to see if it will dig in.
Please don't hang off the bow trying to tie off. I've reached down to a mooring ball, slipped and fell. My feet caught the railing, so I hung upside down with my hair in the water. All you can think of is "now what!"
On my last trip, I thought I would pull the mooring ball closer to the stern so I could tie off. With great amusement, my boat caught the current and took off. My boat hook was stuck on the ball. The strain was intense. When I could no longer hold it, I let go. The boat hook shot across the mooring field like an arrow. A kindly old gent in a sail boat picked it up for us. As a reward for saving our hook, we gave him a bottle of wine.
Tying off in strong winds or currents can be challenging even for a pro. You advance smartly to the mooring, reverse engines so you don't run over the ball or land on the dock. Tie off instantly before the boat takes off with the wind or current. This takes some finese.
There's a lot of wisdom on all of these posts. Ultimately, remember to practice mooring and docking on the calm times. Know your ropes and knots so you can make fast to your mooring quickly and soundly.
When we were up at Mandevil tip or the Three River reach, it was dead calm for most of the day, then, when you were least expecting it, the tide took off at 5 or 6 knots for about an hour. You want to watch for the rental house boats. Most, with their amature crews, will be drifting down the reach.
It seems like any of the waters that are 8' or less will have a heavy carpet of weeds on the bottom. This is where you throw out your heavier iron, let is settle a bit, then pull on it to see if it will dig in.
Please don't hang off the bow trying to tie off. I've reached down to a mooring ball, slipped and fell. My feet caught the railing, so I hung upside down with my hair in the water. All you can think of is "now what!"
On my last trip, I thought I would pull the mooring ball closer to the stern so I could tie off. With great amusement, my boat caught the current and took off. My boat hook was stuck on the ball. The strain was intense. When I could no longer hold it, I let go. The boat hook shot across the mooring field like an arrow. A kindly old gent in a sail boat picked it up for us. As a reward for saving our hook, we gave him a bottle of wine.
Tying off in strong winds or currents can be challenging even for a pro. You advance smartly to the mooring, reverse engines so you don't run over the ball or land on the dock. Tie off instantly before the boat takes off with the wind or current. This takes some finese.
There's a lot of wisdom on all of these posts. Ultimately, remember to practice mooring and docking on the calm times. Know your ropes and knots so you can make fast to your mooring quickly and soundly.
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Great advice everyone! Another tid-bit you might consider. Besides a really good, heavy knife, keep a pair of heavy gloves, preferably leather, handy for pulling in windy conditions - your fingers and hands can get pretty hurt when things get rough.
It can be challanging, but there is nothing better than finding the perfect place to spend the night, and being in the same spot in the morning!
Nobody mentioned it, but if you are not aware, there are two electronic tools that will let you sleep easier when at anchor. Many GPS units have a setting with an anchor drift alarm, so once you are sleeping, if the boat drifts more than 30ft, 50ft, or whatever you have set, it will alert you. The second is on depth finders - many have min and max water depth windows you can set, so if you drift out of the set range it will alarm. Its not as accurate as the gps because you have tidal changes to deal with, but it helps you sleep better.
Have a great time!
Jim
It can be challanging, but there is nothing better than finding the perfect place to spend the night, and being in the same spot in the morning!
Nobody mentioned it, but if you are not aware, there are two electronic tools that will let you sleep easier when at anchor. Many GPS units have a setting with an anchor drift alarm, so once you are sleeping, if the boat drifts more than 30ft, 50ft, or whatever you have set, it will alert you. The second is on depth finders - many have min and max water depth windows you can set, so if you drift out of the set range it will alarm. Its not as accurate as the gps because you have tidal changes to deal with, but it helps you sleep better.
Have a great time!
Jim
If I am single handling, I do NOT try to anchor out when it is windy. Just too darn difficult and chances of an "aw ship!".
Jim, try slowly driving your boat using your engine power when bringing up your anchor. It really saves on the back as well as the hands. You'll need another crew person or a windlass with remote helm control to do this.
I also use the engine when I'm pulling up my stern anchor after the bow anchor has been secured. I bring the rode with me to the helm and pull in line as I have the engine in reverse. Go very slowly and keep tension on the stern rode to prevent the line from getting into the prop. When my stern is over the anchor, I place the engine into neutral and tie off the stern rode to a cleat. Then I try to bring the anchor in by hand. If the anchor is really set hard, I'll throw the engine into a hard quick burst of reverse. This will usually break the anchor free from the bottom. Rinse and bring the anchor onboard and your boat is free.
Jim, try slowly driving your boat using your engine power when bringing up your anchor. It really saves on the back as well as the hands. You'll need another crew person or a windlass with remote helm control to do this.
I also use the engine when I'm pulling up my stern anchor after the bow anchor has been secured. I bring the rode with me to the helm and pull in line as I have the engine in reverse. Go very slowly and keep tension on the stern rode to prevent the line from getting into the prop. When my stern is over the anchor, I place the engine into neutral and tie off the stern rode to a cleat. Then I try to bring the anchor in by hand. If the anchor is really set hard, I'll throw the engine into a hard quick burst of reverse. This will usually break the anchor free from the bottom. Rinse and bring the anchor onboard and your boat is free.
However you choose to anchor, like everything boating, practice, practice, practice! Start with the best conditions: no wind; little or no current. Then start learning how to anchor in conditions which are more typical. If you feel really brave [I never have], then start learning to anchor in conditions which are not very good.
Anchoring is the late summer and fall is much easier, becuase the winds are usually down. Springtime is really a challenge!
Anchoring is the late summer and fall is much easier, becuase the winds are usually down. Springtime is really a challenge!
Flutterby: As you said, dropping the stern first can be faster, but like Monterey10 said it can lead to problems. It is very rare that you can anchor in a dead calm, especially if you are arriving at your anchorage in the afternoon. If the bow is into the wind, and you drop the bow anchor first, then you can stop and be relatively stable at any point. In addition, the bow will typically have a chain locker that the line will play out of and rarely tangle.
The stern anchor, on the other hand, has lots of opportunities to have things go wrong. If the line tangles as it goes out or snags on something you will have to stop and possibly back up a bit. Now the wind is pushing you back over your line, which can be very bad! Wrapping a line around the prop of an I/O can be a pain, but wrapping a line on an inboard is much worse.
I always approach anchoring or docking with the asumption that things will go wrong. The ropes will tangle. The engine will die at the worst possible time. I try to leave as many options open as possible.
Rod
The stern anchor, on the other hand, has lots of opportunities to have things go wrong. If the line tangles as it goes out or snags on something you will have to stop and possibly back up a bit. Now the wind is pushing you back over your line, which can be very bad! Wrapping a line around the prop of an I/O can be a pain, but wrapping a line on an inboard is much worse.
I always approach anchoring or docking with the asumption that things will go wrong. The ropes will tangle. The engine will die at the worst possible time. I try to leave as many options open as possible.
Rod
When you get ready to try anchoring in the spring winds you'll find it's a lot of fun. Myself, I like to hear the sound of anchor line creaking on the chock all night long. It means the boat is solidly anchored. There is nothing like dropping the anchor, letting the wind blow the boat back and feeling the anchor line snap tight.
Rod, you are right. I've only managed to get my line into the prop once due to exceptionally strong current which I forgot to account for. my bad.
If wind is pushing my boat towards the stern anchor, I do not use my engine yet. I just pull in the stern rode as fast as I can until the boat is over the anchor. Then I cleat off the rode and use the engine to break it free. With a wind like that, I'd just haul the anchor into the boat and not wash it right away. I'd concentrate on keeping the boat off of the rocks with the engine.
Plan for the worst and hope for the best!
If wind is pushing my boat towards the stern anchor, I do not use my engine yet. I just pull in the stern rode as fast as I can until the boat is over the anchor. Then I cleat off the rode and use the engine to break it free. With a wind like that, I'd just haul the anchor into the boat and not wash it right away. I'd concentrate on keeping the boat off of the rocks with the engine.
Plan for the worst and hope for the best!
Patrick Griffin
Member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2000
- RO Number
- 2910
- Messages
- 108
You learn so much from local experience and also realize that you are doing something right when you wake up and the boat hasn't moved. I have tried all the anchoring options mentioned in the Delta. We use the bow and stern anchor when we anchor on Steamboat Slough which has worked really well in calm conditions. But if I know the wind is going to blow, I will tie a bow line up to a tree and also a stern line to a shore tree. This gives me a little bit more security and I sleep better.
I have also used a bow line around a shore tree with a stern anchor. Which ever method it takes a bit of planning and coordination with your crew so that it is done easily with no problems.
In the Delta I typically never have done just a bow anchor and swung because the areas are typically to tight to swing. Now on the ocean, not a problem. I just make sure the anchor is set really good with a nice burst of reverse.
Happy anchoring!
I have also used a bow line around a shore tree with a stern anchor. Which ever method it takes a bit of planning and coordination with your crew so that it is done easily with no problems.
In the Delta I typically never have done just a bow anchor and swung because the areas are typically to tight to swing. Now on the ocean, not a problem. I just make sure the anchor is set really good with a nice burst of reverse.
Happy anchoring!
paz, thanks for asking the question.
Everyone else, thanks for all the advice you offered. I'm being kind of a sponge on things like this in order to at least have an appreciation of it all. Of course, having a good instructor and doing it is the real teacher, but it's great to have an idea ahead of time.
Everyone else, thanks for all the advice you offered. I'm being kind of a sponge on things like this in order to at least have an appreciation of it all. Of course, having a good instructor and doing it is the real teacher, but it's great to have an idea ahead of time.
Thanks for all the advice.
Last sunday we whent out to mildred island and got a little practice anchoring. Water was around 12 feet deep so i put out maybe 60 feet of rope and did not set anchor with motor but let the current set and we didnt move for about 5 hours! anchor held good. Plan on going back saturday and spending the night so some new chain and rope is in the works. Any one know the deepest point to enter the island?
Last sunday we whent out to mildred island and got a little practice anchoring. Water was around 12 feet deep so i put out maybe 60 feet of rope and did not set anchor with motor but let the current set and we didnt move for about 5 hours! anchor held good. Plan on going back saturday and spending the night so some new chain and rope is in the works. Any one know the deepest point to enter the island?
paz, an anchor windlass is a winch that pulls up the anchor rode which is stored in a small compartment called a chainlocker. Anchor windlasses can be designed for line only, chain only or a combination of the two. The chain type and size and line type can be important to the smooth operation of a windlass, so be sure what kind of rode a windlass is designed to handle before buying new gear.