Had my raw water system(s) flushed

quote:
Originally posted by boatbum

1/10 Bill. I've used my rig twice now, and this year it cost me about 20 bucks.

The trick with it is to neutralize the acid with baking soda. If you do this too fast you will have a genuine mess on your hands.

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There is really no need to neutralize. Just fire the system up and flush it out.
 
Capt Bill
100 percent correct, knew this before I did this, just wanted to see it done for when I do it next.
 
Andy,
to pull out all the crap and clean it (Volvo) it would be 3 to 4k a motor. God only knows what the cost would be to replace something.
 
Just remember to pull all of the zincs out and replace them with plugs. I use the old zinc fittings that have given up their zinc.
 
Buddy had same company do him yesterday. a grand for 2 engines, genset and ac. Way worth it . Whos going to have the fittings , the time and patience.

Well worth it .

Rob
 
I used Rydlyme on our engines a couple months ago. I think cost was about $200, including the new pump, and various hoses and fittings -- and the extra Rydlyme I still have left over for doing the genset and the AC -- when I get a round tuit.

-Chris
 
quote:
Originally posted by Robski97

Buddy had same company do him yesterday. a grand for 2 engines, genset and ac. Way worth it . Whos going to have the fittings , the time and patience.

Well worth it .

Rob

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It's obviously a great service for those who either can't or don't want to do simple maintenance projects themselves. And the price isn't to bad considering the time they put in.

It's just that it's a pretty simple project for a DIYer. And making your own flush setup a is pretty cheap, easy and a one time cost that gets cheaper every time you use it.
 
I will miss my outboards if I completely switch to the Gulfstar diesel inboard trawler I bought off this forum from Bill (right now I'm a two-boat owner). With my Hondas on my power cat I simply hook a garden hose to the built in flush system and watch the salt and other crap go away.
 
Don't be sad Kurt, you can still fresh water flush your diesels if you want. :-)
 
quote:
Originally posted by Capt. Bill1

quote:
Originally posted by Robski97

Buddy had same company do him yesterday. a grand for 2 engines, genset and ac. Way worth it . Whos going to have the fittings , the time and patience.

Well worth it .

Rob

Click to expand...


It's obviously a great service for those who either can't or don't want to do simple maintenance projects themselves. And the price isn't to bad considering the time they put in.

It's just that it's a pretty simple project for a DIYer. And making your own flush setup a is pretty cheap, easy and a one time cost that gets cheaper every time you use it.

Click to expand...


Bill,
You are correct 100% , changing your oil is just as complicated as this :)

For me, the visual, process, etc, was worth the price for admission.

Rob,
Fittings, pump, etc, yes pain in the butt to figure out, few trips to the stores, but once you have that, very, very easy to do.
 
Walt,
There is nothing easy about pulling impellers. Id like to fing shoot the searay guys !

Rob
 
Like anything with a boat. It's time vs money vs knowledge.
I watched my mechanic winterize the ips before I did myself.
$1k is cheap. You should of taken pics of all parts used.

I am gonna do mine at end of season.
Figure I can get two tubs filled with barnacle buster.
Put under both ips drives and pump up thru water intake on motor.
Guess I need to find out if ips can have water forced thru when not running.
I was always told you should never force water thru a motor that is not running.
But you said he did yours with motor off.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Robski97

Walt,
There is nothing easy about pulling impellers. Id like to fing shoot the searay guys !

Rob

Click to expand...


Rob, I'll show you where my port one is and you will think yours is easy;)

Air seps, heat exchanger, after-cooler all have to come off. Then you need a slim blind midget who can crawl outboard of the motor. Has to be blind because he will be used to working on something he can't see.
 
Dave,
U want to go in the reverse direction....

Mark,
I dont understand why they do what they do.... Its crazy .. I guess stupidity cross all boat lines... Just like people ...

Rob
 
Being hands on, is great. The "great" is, when in the belly of the boat you see things that others will not. Some of those things you can do, others you cannot. One of the criteria with any boat I ever bought was "access ability" for maintenance items as well as the big boy repairs. Silverton fit that bill real well for me.
The problem with what I was looking for, and where Searay shines, is in order to have such "access ability" you lose creature comfort space in a boat. Silvertons answer was a wider beam, so same space inside, but an overall beam much wider.
All boats have trade offs, one trade off for me that was non-acceptable was being able to repair the stuff that will fail.
 
Oh,
Back to the original post. Ran the boat today, ran hard going to the inlet, then soft (normal cruise) coming home. No change in Temp readings. All was in spec before, so I guess, all was good before ?? Have a starting point now. No regrets.
 
That was the outcome when I flushed ours, too. Ditto, glad I did it.

Actually, flushing our mains was an ancillary focus, as is the genset. I was really focused on the AC systems when I began thinking about descaling.

-Chris
 
"Actually, flushing our mains was an ancillary focus, as is the genset. I was really focused on the AC systems when I began thinking about descaling."

Yes - over the years this is what I have found as well. If you run an IR gun on the in and out areas of various engines spots the temp normally will not change due to flushing - unless there are bigger problems which cannot directly be corrected with the flushing.

But.... if you measure the temps with an IR gun at the input and output of the cooling coils on an A/C unit you will see a difference when you flush those units - as well as with their performance.

Hope this helps
 
SMitty,
In NY the condenser coils are usually just full of mud and silt. If u can connect a hose right at the condnssr inlet and blow it out ud be fine .

in 10 years ive never had anything grow in the condenser , ( riverhead doesn't count )

Rob
 
Thank you Rob,

I am sure you are correct - I have not done the A/C that often, maybe every 5-6 years as the measurements just do not change enough to warrant the job.
I have added elbows for connections on each side of the A/C coils so it is easy to rig up a way to blow it out as you described on all the units.

Thanks again
 
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