Jabsco 37010 - Quiet Conversion Kit

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Pilotpak

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A while back I posted a thread about my very noisy Jabsco electric head.

It was felt that the problem lay with the Flush Water impeller, so someone suggested that I remove the impeller and mount a Diaphragm pump like the Jabsco ParMax in the engine room, close to the thru-hull raw-water intake.

I ordered the Par-Max pump today (AUD $220), but the pump dealer says the idea won't work - says you can't remove the impeller in the 37010.

He could sell me a Jabsco "Quiet Conversion Kit", which is simply a Par-Max raw water pump as above, a 2 position rocker switch, and a back-of-head macerator without any raw-water pump built in. This is about AUD $1100 - almost the cost of a new quiet flush toilet itself !

Any thoughts as to why the impeller removal concept would not work ?

Wayne
2006 Larson 310 Cabrio
 
I removed the impeller from mine and added a seperate pump like you suggested and haven't had any problems. I don't know why he told you it couldn't be removed.
 
I'm probably the one who suggested it. Whoever told you it won't work is full of BS, and trying to advance his own agenda. Yes you CAN remove the flush impeller (it's replaceable ain't it?). The head doesn't care HOW it gets water, just as long as it does; you can feed it from a bucket or a long garden hose if you like. Mine has been in service in modified mode for about 5 years now with NO problems.

True, you can't remove the flush PUMP from the unit, because the motor shaft would then be way too long. But you CAN remove the impeller from the pump and leave the empty pump chamber.

Now you have two choices, you can feed the bowl directly from the new pump and leave the pump chamber empty, or you can pump the flush water through the chamber to the bowl. I chose the latter because I was concerned waste material from the macerator MIGHT get past the seal and into the empty pump chamber. Pumping the flush water THROUGH the chamber works for me. In all honesty I don't think it matters.

You don't need a new switch, either. just connect the new flush pump in parallel with the macerator pump, so they BOTH come on when you hit the button. No need to change fuses, IMO the new setup draws LESS amps than the original setup.

And don't forget to install a strainer if you don't already have one.

Keep the impeller you remove. If the flush pump ever fails, you can bypass it, re-install the impeller and you're back to the original noisy setup. MIGHT take half an hour.

Don't feel bad, they told ME it wouldn't work too, and also tried to sell me a whole new conversion kit, as they did you. Good trick if they can make it work.

You have to understand "tech help". In most cases they're certainly NOT going to get out on a limb and possibly jeopardize their job by admitting that YOUR idea might actually work better. Far safer (and more profitable) to sell you a whole new pump body that they designed and sell.
 
Steven and Steamboat Willie are absolutely correct; do you Aussies have a term that equates or translates to the American term "Dealer Ripoff?"

Bill, you can run a short "jumper hose" that joins the intake to the discharge of the no-longer-used intake pump. Then, even if anything should get by the seal, it can't go anywhere, as the two ports don't "vent" to the outside any longer. I did the very same thing on another head that I converted to pressurized fresh water use, many years ago.
 
Thanks Vic I never thought of the jumper hose, the short hose that's currently used to go to the bowl would be just about right. However if you ever had to take the thing apart you'd have a mess. I chose to run the water through the empty pump chamber partly for simplicity and partly to keep it cleaned out.
 
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