Merc Alpha! Gen II outdrive very slow leak?

seachunk2

Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2006
RO Number
20886
Messages
131
I pressure tested the outdrive after changing the carrier bearing and it's leaking from 16# down to zero at about 1/10th of a pound pressure every 15 seconds. It's about 30 minutes for psi to zero out. I sprayed soapy water all around the assembled outdrive but I'm not finding air bubbles. How much of a concern is this rate of leaking?
 
Are you certain that it is not the connections you made for the test?
 
I am not familiar with your set up just trying to help. Is this the exit route for cooling water? If it opens to the outside thee would not be much pressure.

Send Charlie (jtybt) a note
 
If there are no bubbles at the inputshaft, the shiftshaft or the propshaft or your connections then the only other seal is the lower driveshaft seal.To test there you have to split the drive and plug the oil transfer hole in the lower unit and pressurize it.You will have to remove the impeller to see there
 
Thanks for the replies. I checked again for leaks. Bubbles were apparent when I Sprayed the soapy water around the shift rod bushing assembly. I'll need to replace it. Hope it's an easy task.
 
I believe you can just replace the seal and not the complete housing.
26-89236 , Sierra 18-2009.
When removing the shift plate keep the drive vertical, shift into full Fwd, remove the 2 bolts, gently pry up and out.
To install , lube the O rings, carefully insert shift rod making sure your in a straight line , install bolts
 
It's important to keep the shift lever in the 12:00 position because the bottom end of the shift shaft is also splined and is aligned with another shift lever to keep the lower shift lever aligned with the lower gears in correct position for smooth shifts. A way to test is the prop will lock up turning counter clockwise and also lock up with the upper shift lever in the 9:00 position and turning upper shift lever to 10:30, the prop should turn freely in both directions.

For the good of the drive, lt's better to leak oil out rather than leak water in.
 
I replace the shift rod bushing assembly with a Sierra brand part and I still had a leak. The shift rod itself looked fine, no grooves or wear spots. I replaced the Sierra assembly with a OEM Mercruiser part and it's not leaking from the that seal (no bubbles when I spray with soapy water under 15psi pressure. However, there is still a very slight leak. I had also replace the carrier seal that's under the water pump. Since I had bad luck with the Sierra shift rod bushing, I'm suspecting the carrier is no good too. I might submerge the unit in water while it's under pressure before I take the two upper and lower units apart to confirm where the leak is coming from. When I spray with soapy water around the prop seal, U Joint and drain and fill seals, where the oil flat o-ring sits between the 2 halves and even my pressure gauge and any connections, I'm not seeing any bubbles. Since I now have the both halves of the unit assembled, I can see what's happening withe the carrier seal. I think submerging it with the 15psi is the next step? It's a real slow leak but I want to get it all sealed. .
 
I separated the upper and lower halves & removed the water pump. I pressurized lower to 16psi and it still leaked. I sprayed soapy water by the carrier seal and the shift shaft bushing and neither leaked. I also wet the prop shaft and didn't see any bubbling. I made 100% certain both oil seal furfaces where the two haves join were clean. I reassembled the unit and pressure tested and there continues to be a leak but I can't find it when I spray with the soapy water. Are there any internal seals in the upper half that might not be visible? My next step is to submerge it while pressurized. This stay-at-home is giving me plenty of time for doing this. Also, there is no leak with the pressure testing connections or gauge.
 
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