Problem with flushing on Raritan toilet

J

JohnC

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Vic,

My boat is a 1995, the toilet is a Raritan Atlantes, model number shows A12 on the back. It is a saltwater flush with a remote pump. A couple of weeks ago a problem started where if you flush with the normal cycle water would continue filling the bowl and it would never stop pumping saltwater and discharge the bowl. If we then pulled the lever for a dry flush the intake water would stop and the bowl would drain. This workaround was fine until this morning.

Then this morning a new problem started where nothing happens. Regular flush or dry flush doesn't work. I looked at the back of the toilet and no obvious issues with broken or disconnected wires and the wiring and connections still look clean. I haven't checked the head circuit breaker yet, but given the problem started as something else I'm tending to think it's not related to power coming in. I'll verify this tomorrow. Any suggestions on what to check and what the problem could be?

Thanks,
John
 
Considering the age of the toilet (12 years) and past experience, I'd have to point to the circuit breakers on the very bottom of the head, in the center. You have to lay the toilet on its side to see them. There, on the bottom, are (4) automatic-reset circuit breakers. They are black in color, about an inch long and about 3/8" square. They snap into regular fuse clips that can also accomodate the old style glass fuses that were used in cars back in the 50's and 60's. When these circuit breakers get a little age on them, they stop passing current - even though they will check out fine with an ohmmeter - drives you nuts, trying to figure out what's wrong (don't ask me how I found out). The thing to do is to write down the values of these circuit breakers - should be (2) 4 amp, a 35 amp and a 15 amp if you have a 12 volt system. Then run down to the auto parts store and buy the same value glass fuses (1/4" diameter X 1 1/4" long) and replace the existing circuit breakers with the glass fuses - do it one at a time, so that you don't get them in the wrong places.

Regarding the original problem, where the toilet doesn't want to stop flushing, you've most likely got a sticking solenoid relay (AM06012). There are two identical solenoid relays stacked together on the left side of the rear of the toilet, as you look into it from the rear. The upper one is the culprit. Give it a good, sound "whack" with the end of a hammer handle or the handle end of a screw driver. That should get it's attention and get it working properly again. The permanent cure is to replace the upper solenoid relay, but giving it a whack will usually get it working again - at least for a while. The solenoid relays, tend to stick in the "on" position and keep the toilet flushing over and over until they make up their mind to release. This could be anywhere from 30 seconds to 30 minutes.

If it were I, while I had the toilet pulled out from the wall anyway, I'd replace the 4 circuit breakers AND the two solenoid relays, all at the same time. Then you should be good for another 10 or 12 years before having to mess with it again. When replacing the solenoid relays, you'll notice that each one of them has a diode installed across the two small electrical lugs. You usually destroy them in the process of removing them. You can get suitable replacement diodes at any Radio Shack for about 50 cents apiece. When installing the new ones, the band on the diode points toward the WHITE wires that connect on the small lug. The other wires connected to the other small lug will be either blue or green.
 
Vic...you also forgot to mention to change the joker valve while it was out
 
Danny, you're right as usual. The joker valve won't affect the flushing operation, but while you have the head away from the wall anyway, won't hurt to change it out. BTW, how's the Mrs. doing?
 
Thanks Vic. I have an access panel behind the toilet where I can get to the hoses and solenoids, but from your description it sounds like it has to be out from the wall to get to the circuit breakers, correct? So far I don't see them from the access I have.

BTW, I was just looking at it again and was able to fill the bowl and flush the bowl by jumping the wires on the solenoids. Does that mean anything in terms of your circuit breaker diagnosis?
 
Thanks for asking Vic....she is doing about the same...good one day and not so good the next..still tires very easily...we go back Oct 23rd for the next set of scans....she hasn't been home since August 2nd, when she went into the hospital, with blood clots in both lungs....and upon getting out August 12th she has been at her parents and on oxygen 24/7. Just easier for me to run the 35 miles one way than them, and besides having my mother inlaw here 24/7 might be more than I can handle...hard enough sometimes me staying out there overnight.

BTW I lost the election so I guess my next plan is to try and find a job which offers group insurance since I am now paying COBRA. Thank goodness the boat storage is going great...out of the 88 units I have only 4 units open to rent..and if it comes to it, I'll pull my pontoon out to the barn to free up another
http://www.dbestboatstorage.com

and JohnC, while you have the head out, go ahead and pull off the cover to the macerator blades and make sure nothing is wrapped around them...might as well give it a good once over while its out...
 
John, it'll definitely have to be unbolted from the deck, but depending on how much slack you may have in the hosing, it "may be possible" to tilt the whole thing forward enough to access the circuit breakers through your removable panel. They are on the very bottom of the head, right smack in the middle. I'm not infallible, but I still think the breakers are your problem. Aside from the work involved, for 2 or 3 dollars, it's well worth swapping the breakers out with the glass fuses - they'll probably never have to be changed again.

Danny, thanks for the update - I was hoping for better news, but at least it isn't any worse. I'm still keeping her in my prayers. The boat storage looks like a nice, neat operation. I'm glad it's doing well. I went on the site and snuck a look at the pictures, noted the one of the two of you in better days... As far as jobs go, you evidently have some political contact - perhaps you can swing a local government job - many of them have full benefits as well as retirement programs. I'm guessing that the COBRA issue is of paramount interest - especially when it ends.
 
Thanks Vic, I think you steered me in the right direction to find the problem. I pulled the toilet out from the wall, and since it's on a step I was able to tilt it up and see the circuit breakers from the front. One of them sounded like it was broken inside so I figured that was definitely it. Changed them all and still nothing though... But then as I looked more closely there's a small red wire nearby that has broken off from whatever it was connected to. Looks like there's a butt connector in a wiring bundle it belongs connected to.... I have to go back and unwrap the wires and re-attach it, but at this point I'm hoping that is the problem and it's just a simple wiring issue and will be fixed with a new connection.
 
Replaced the circuit breakers with fuses and fixed the broken wire connection and now all is well. The original problem is gone also, so maybe it's related. If it acts up again I'll replace the solenoid.

Thanks again!
 
Thanks for the update - all too often, I don't hear back from people and never know for sure whether or not my solution worked...
 
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