PURASAN to PSTEX conversion?

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Billylll

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Does anyone know if a Raritan PuraSan can be converted to a PuraSan X?
Bill
 
Bill, what's the difference between the two units? I just read the spec sheet but nothing jumped out at me.
 
The PSTEX uses a Raritan water pump as an air pump to force the water out of the canister after lapping the chlorine. It also is fresh water only and is programmable as for the time it takes to fill the canister with water and to drain it. I have installed a few of the units already and they will be nice once a few issues are taken care of. IMHO I would wait about 6 months
 
Since my PuraSan only uses freshwater and was modified to a H-N-T system I would think this would be a huge improvement. I like the was the current system works however it can create quite a mess if the dispenser, the 3 one way valves and the hoses aren't routinely cleaned or replaced. I have always had minor issues with either too little water in the dispenser or too much water.
This new version seems like it would eliminate my issues.
Bill
 
quote:
Originally posted by BarrenRiver

It also is fresh water only and is programmable as for the time it takes to fill the canister with water and to drain it.

Click to expand...


You mean unlike the nylon clip on the original units fresh water inlet? :-)
 
quote:
Originally posted by Billylll

Since my PuraSan only uses freshwater and was modified to a H-N-T system I would think this would be a huge improvement. I like the was the current system works however it can create quite a mess if the dispenser, the 3 one way valves and the hoses aren't routinely cleaned or replaced. I have always had minor issues with either too little water in the dispenser or too much water.
This new version seems like it would eliminate my issues.
Bill
Click to expand...


I originally installed my HNT system with an Electro Scan. But switched to the Purasan once it was compatible. I too get those clogs, Bill. Usually during the off-season when the boat is used less. I end up with ruined treatment cartridge that probably had 30 or so percent left in it. The water fill sure is touchy. It gives different levels depending, of course, on the pressure available. I usually set mine to be a bit high as I never get through a full cartridge anyway.
 
quote:
Originally posted by mixman

quote:
Originally posted by Billylll

Since my PuraSan only uses freshwater and was modified to a H-N-T system I would think this would be a huge improvement. I like the was the current system works however it can create quite a mess if the dispenser, the 3 one way valves and the hoses aren't routinely cleaned or replaced. I have always had minor issues with either too little water in the dispenser or too much water.
This new version seems like it would eliminate my issues.
Bill
Click to expand...


I originally installed my HNT system with an Electro Scan. But switched to the Purasan once it was compatible. I too get those clogs, Bill. Usually during the off-season when the boat is used less. I end up with ruined treatment cartridge that probably had 30 or so percent left in it. The water fill sure is touchy. It gives different levels depending, of course, on the pressure available. I usually set mine to be a bit high as I never get through a full cartridge anyway.

Click to expand...

Kurt mine was fine until last year. Then I started noticing calcium and possibly tablet residue. I changed all my small tubing and the 3 red valves last year. Then in addition every black fitting and the cartridge dispenser itself needed a cleaning. I think this is a big step to solve the problems with the PuraSan. I love the concept and the way it works.
As I mentioned my primary boating area is on the very south end of an NDZ but when we anchor I generally go one Bay south and can legally use the PuraSan (H-N-T) conversion.
It looks like the new unit doesn't use the old cartridge but what looks to be large pool Chlorine tablets (I know they are not pool tablets). Pump out facilities and the pump out boats are anything but reliable since "Sandy".
Bill
 
The new system using a basket and you drop 2 tablets in at a time...in fact this is the retro kit for all Purasans as the old self contained tablets are no longer available......Good news is these are less expensive and no HAZMAT fees.....What I have been doing to a lot of the units out there is converting them over from 1202's to 1203s...raw to fresh water...using a quarter inch barb shut off to adjust the amount of water coming in and changing out the drain fitting and hose in the canister from quarter inch to 3/8....to let it flow out of the canister quicker and to avoid the build up and clogs

The canister should be cleaned every year...using a drill bit or whatever to lean out the small fill holes in the bottom of it The only way you know the system is working is to watch and make sure water comes in and then drains out.....The new unit has an LED on the panel to alert you of over fill etc etc
 
quote:
Originally posted by mixman

quote:
Originally posted by BarrenRiver

It also is fresh water only and is programmable as for the time it takes to fill the canister with water and to drain it.

Click to expand...


You mean unlike the nylon clip on the original units fresh water inlet? :-)

Click to expand...


Yes no more douchebag clips
 
The old treatment cartridge I have installed now is not even 25% gone. Then I have one more to go through. But I'll need to convert eventually. Do you have the part numbers for the retro kit and the new tablets?
 
Thanks!

Does the 41-135RFK come with any tablets? Some retailers list it with 6 of them. Raritan has the unit cheaper than the retailers but makes no mention of tablets except for 41-135A.
 
I'm looking to convert from the old cartridge flow system to the new forced solution pump system can that be done by converting my current 12VDC PuraSan?
I think I get it now after reading BarrenRiver's post a few times.......
Bill
 
This is something I do want to keep an eye on. As it is now, I know where the issues occur and I can stay on top of them. I hate to take a simple system and make it more complicated.
 
retro kit does come with tables....thru Raritan direct $76
tablets alone thru Raritan $51.78

I don't think its worth the effort to try and retro your old Purasan to the new PSTEX
1. the canister is different with a float switch which would call for a change
2. The circuit board on the old Purasan is no longer ...There is now a controller along with solenoids all self contained with the "pump" mounted to it
3. The start stop button is different allowing you to program the unit

So by the time you piece it all together you would be money ahead to buy a new unit.....BUT like I said earlier I would wait a few months until some issues are worked out
 
[/quote]
Kurt mine was fine until last year. Then I started noticing calcium and possibly tablet residue. I changed all my small tubing and the 3 red valves last year. Then in addition every black fitting and the cartridge dispenser itself needed a cleaning. I think this is a big step to solve the problems with the PuraSan. I love the concept and the way it works.
As I mentioned my primary boating area is on the very south end of an NDZ but when we anchor I generally go one Bay south and can legally use the PuraSan (H-N-T) conversion.
It looks like the new unit doesn't use the old cartridge but what looks to be large pool Chlorine tablets (I know they are not pool tablets). Pump out facilities and the pump out boats are anything but reliable since "Sandy".
Bill
[/quote]
The key to the Pursan is yearly cleaning...Remove the canister and clean out all the holes and rinse it out good. Check the fittings for build up.. The draining of the canister is gravity flow and the tubing from it should as short a run as possible, with no sags or loops. I don't like it if it runs down and then back up into the head...nor do I like the later versions from Raritan which feeds into the top the Purasan. It cant overcome the pressure, to drain completely.

When I retro a customers unit, and mind you these are houseboats with deeper hulls or as Vic would call them basements....I cut the sanitation hose going into the Purasan and insert a coupling which I drill and tap, install a barb fitting and run the hose from the canister to it. I find that a couple of Sealand fittings and 1.5" PVC coupling work the best.

I also change out the drain fitting to 3/8" on the canister to give it more flow....Only use the black barb fittings...The white ones will not stand up to the chemical if you change out any of the 1/4" barb fittings

On new installs, I will use as much 1.5" PVC as possible.
 
I am going to follow all of your suggestions. I use mine to treat the waste from the holding tank. I noticed on the new units there is no longer a minimum vertcal height specification for the solution feed. Mine is a straight run to the input fitting on the PuraSan. For some reason my unit once it starts getting it's solution based clog pressure starts building in the canister. From that point it's an uphill battle that resulted in a solution hose breaking loose off the canister and squirting me directly in the face and eyes this past weekend. No I wasn't hurt I immediately jumped in the shower which is right next to the head and hosed off. Since my PuraSan is higher then the holding tank it draws from I have vented loops in and out of the unit. The small hose that came off was the T on the side of the solution canister and the pressure was close to a garden hose opened on full.
I never want to have that happen again it wasn't pleasant. I also use a SeaLand bellows transfer pump in place of the old school black Jabsco style macerater that fails about every 6 months.
Bill
 
BillyIII, the new units use a pump and force the chemical out of the canister, thus no height requirement...On the new units the lid to the canister must be tight...On all the previous Purasans do not tighten the lid down....I always tighten it down and then back it off a little.
 
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