parker2120
Member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2010
- RO Number
- 32018
- Messages
- 29
fuel shut off switch
Slave solenoid for '93 Crusader 454XL
- Thread starter Bob J
- Start date
Funny, I searched the parts list for 98220 and came up with nothing, even though it must be part of that engine. The gOOgle and there it is. Go figure.
So this 98220 opens if the engine loses oil pressure when the ECM otherwise thought it should be running, and notifies the ECM to shut down a fuel pump or fuel injection pump?
Hard to see how it'd disable the starter...
So this 98220 opens if the engine loses oil pressure when the ECM otherwise thought it should be running, and notifies the ECM to shut down a fuel pump or fuel injection pump?
Hard to see how it'd disable the starter...
Good catch Bob- glad to hear you having it running again. How did you track that part down as the culprit? It's more recognizable as "Oil Pressure Switch(Fuel Pump)".
Beats me how that pressure switch was cranking the engine in switch On position. But perhaps since it's apparently a 3- wire switch that incorporates the pressure sw. bypass for starting, an internal fault could short the On part of the circuit to supply voltage to the Start side wires and backfeed to the starter relay? Its pigtail connector can only be connected one way, not reverse position ,yes?
Beats me how that pressure switch was cranking the engine in switch On position. But perhaps since it's apparently a 3- wire switch that incorporates the pressure sw. bypass for starting, an internal fault could short the On part of the circuit to supply voltage to the Start side wires and backfeed to the starter relay? Its pigtail connector can only be connected one way, not reverse position ,yes?
jd, part # 98220 is clearly in my Crusader parts list. The other thing is you stated: Hard to see how it'd disable the starter... The defective part actually caused the engine to start when key was turned to "ON" position; as such starter was not disabled !
Sandy, yes connection can only be joined one way because of configuration. Cannot reverse even if you wanted to. Re the 3 contacts on part; should measure continuity between 2 of the contacts & none on the third. Was getting continuity on all 3 contacts; not good. Absolute bear to remove. 9/16 open end wrench actually rounded corners of brass part that screws into engine. Had to use large pair of vice grips & even they were slipping but perseverance won out.
Sandy, yes connection can only be joined one way because of configuration. Cannot reverse even if you wanted to. Re the 3 contacts on part; should measure continuity between 2 of the contacts & none on the third. Was getting continuity on all 3 contacts; not good. Absolute bear to remove. 9/16 open end wrench actually rounded corners of brass part that screws into engine. Had to use large pair of vice grips & even they were slipping but perseverance won out.
Bob- A set of flare-nut wrenches can be pretty handy for improved grip on brass hex fittings .
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-25300-Flare-Nut-Wrench/dp/B000P0TZF6 .
A couple shots of something like Freeze-Off might have helped as well, and/or perhaps cutting the wires and slipping on a deep socket. Even a pipe wrench or spring-loaded basin wrench if room.
But of course, it really doesn't matter much what you successfully employed to remove a part you are replacing. Thumbs up & happy boating!.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-25300-Flare-Nut-Wrench/dp/B000P0TZF6 .
A couple shots of something like Freeze-Off might have helped as well, and/or perhaps cutting the wires and slipping on a deep socket. Even a pipe wrench or spring-loaded basin wrench if room.
But of course, it really doesn't matter much what you successfully employed to remove a part you are replacing. Thumbs up & happy boating!.
Sandy, after initial rounding; didn't think of flare-nut wrench; not sure if I had a 9/16 size anyhow. Cutting just the wires off would not give access to brass fitting into block. Did have small pipe wrench; could not get an adequate bite. Small vise grips did not give enuff leverage; larger pair did the job. I hope & pray that part never fails on port engine......hope I didn't just put a curse on myself !
I have a set of Blackhawk flare nut wrenches in English and a few odd Metric ones. I do remember a desperate run across Tampa on a Sunday to get an odd Metric one from NAPA before they closed. I had to go look - it's a 16mm x 18mm and I forget which end I needed on a GM power steering rack assembly. I remember they were really proud of it 12-15 years ago. These days with Harbor Freight, Northern Tool etc. it's probably better to just go buy a set. A Metric you may want if you work on cars is the 10mm, used on brake lines if you have rear drum brakes.
Maybe the parts list wasn't searchable in Acrobat. When I asked it for 98220 in "Find" it returned nothing. Not knowing what the thing was, I didn't try to look it up by scrolling through the pages. The continuity you found that shouldn't've been there probably backfed 12VDC to something that wasn't expecting it.
Maybe the parts list wasn't searchable in Acrobat. When I asked it for 98220 in "Find" it returned nothing. Not knowing what the thing was, I didn't try to look it up by scrolling through the pages. The continuity you found that shouldn't've been there probably backfed 12VDC to something that wasn't expecting it.
I can't find a wiring diagram for this specific application but Crusader typically uses the "I" terminal from the starter solenoid to run the electric fuel pump when the starter is engaged. Once the engine starts the oil pressure switch mentioned above powers the fuel pump as long as there is sufficient oil pressure. A short across the pressure switch contacts could backfeed power to the starter solenoid.
I just found this thread; the exact same problem has begun on my port engine; a 1992 Crusader 454XL. Its intermittant, but happens often; turn the key to the ON position and the engine cranks and starts. I checked the key switch and all the wiring and found nothing wrong. I was assuming that it was probably the starter, or perhaps the slave solenoid, but now I am thinking it could be this oil pressure switch for the fuel pump circuit.
What's the sequence to test this ? Which terminals should have continuity and which shouldn't ?
What's the sequence to test this ? Which terminals should have continuity and which shouldn't ?
Typically wired as such, with a 3 lug pressure switch
C common to the fuel pump, NO normally open closes under oil pressure , NC normally closed to the "I" lug of the starter solenoid.
powers pump under cranking condition.
The 2 connector switch as such
C common to the fuel pump, NO normally open closes under oil pressure , NC normally closed to the "I" lug of the starter solenoid.
powers pump under cranking condition.
The 2 connector switch as such
Responding to Prince's and Alien's remarks: I analysed the Crusader Engine Harness Wiring Diagrams (L5100). There is no relay to disconnect the starter's I terminal to fuel pump. When ignition turned on, power goes to 5 items, one being the normally open oil pressure/fuel pump switch. If this switch was defective, and closed (shorted), it would conduct (backfeed) to the I terminal on the starter. IF the starter's solinoid is typical, SPST, it connects the B (bat. hot) to the JOINED starter mtr./I terminal. When your OP/FP switch gets pressure and closes, it still backfeeds via the I terminal to the starter mtr. IF it is a SPST solinoid, the starter motor would always be running. Either the solinoid must be DPST, a relay/diode installed in the path, or moving the FP feed from I to S terminal. Also unusual, the I terminal normally feeds the igniton coil during crank, bypassing the ballast resistor, for a hotter start. This design does not.