U-Line Ice Makers

Mike, the fingers should be anywhere between 12 o'clock and 2 o'clock, when in the parked position during the cooldown cycle. So it sounds as though everything is OK.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Vic Willman

Paul, the wire arm opens and closes a microswitch inside that turns on and turns off the ejector portion of the machine. Given that it's 20 years old, I'd guess that the microswitch is hanging up and needs to be replaced. The trick is getting access to it. First, turn off the machine. Then remove the cover from the front of the ice mold mechanism inside the machine (put screw driver in slot at bottom of cover, then twist). Next, remove the 3 screws that hold the metal plate with the gear, etc. on it in place. From the top of the metal plate, bend the metal plate outward like a door on a hinge.

You'll see a little bump on the wire shutoff arm that contacts a switch, mounted inside the "black box." That switch is most likely the the cuplrit. It's a standard micro switch, about $5 or $6 at Radio Shack. Note where the wires go before disconnecting them, as the new switch will have a terminal that doesn't get used. The old one may also have this unused terminal, or it may not, depending on the age of the unit. Remove the switch from the black box, and install the new one. If there is a spacer installed behind the switch, be sure to replace it with the new switch. Reconnect the wires.

Now, slowly push the metal plate back into position, note that the "tang" on the end of the wire arm MUST go through a small hole in the metal plate, and the spring attached to it must be tucked inside the black box - the spring simply presses against the side of the inside of the black box. Then turn the machine on and see what happens. It should now work correctly.

Click to expand...
Big thanks Vic. I am printing this to take with me down to the boat.

Paul
 
Paul, have fun, and good luck with it! While I was writing up the answer, I dug out an old U-Line mold assembly to look over and refresh my memory - it's been a while since I worked on one. But the info I gave you should be accurate.
 
Vic, many thanks!! I'll check the fill tube and ejection cycle on my next trip to the boat (hopefully next week).

This is really helpful, thanks.

Ted
 
Reading these posts about ice-makers makes me realize my Martini ice cubes have melted. You see, I'm sitting near the swim-up pool in the Kartika Plaza in Kuta Beach, Bali.... and the temp. is 83*F. Now where is that pretty waitress?
The dockmaster at my marina in Vancouver has just emailed all tenants that he is shutting off the water due to a freeze warning. I did not winterize my U-line, just switched it off, so, fingers X-sed.
David
 
David, forget the ice maker on the boat and get them cubes refreshed, now tell me about the waitress :-)
 
The compressor will get good and hot after it's run for a few hours. You can touch it, but you can't keep your hand on it. Also check that the fan is running at full speed. When it's running, the blade should be just a blur - you shouldn't be able to see it clearly. Sometimes dust and dirt will get into the fan motor bearings and slow down the fan, causing the compressor to overheat.
 
Vic...I've not been on the forum in a while coz cruising with some friends on a 66 ft Alaskan, currently in El Cid marina, in Mazatlan MX.
They have a problem with their U-lane combo CO29FB, about 5 years old, and hoping you can help. They tell me it has always been a problem...so here is their explanation of the issue..
The water enters normally but drains from the front of the ice tray. They have turned the fill adjuster to a lower setting, as you have previously advised on this topic, but it still spills and causes an ice stallegn(t)ite to form at the front of the ice maker part of the combo.
I'm thinking that they should shim the front of the machine, but the deck is already convex and appears to permit the ice-maker to lean aft.
We would love to hear your opinion. I've said that ...given an airline ticket.....you might consider to come and fix... but I'm sure that you are toooooo busy!
I'm watching the sports-fishing guys on the dock carving dorado and marlin...all that blood and guts makes me feel sick!...... so i'm having a margareta.
david
 
David, sorry I missed your posting and didn't answer sooner. What I suspect might be the problem is the solenoid valve. The solenoid valve is a water valve that is opened and closed via an electric solenoid. As the machine goes through the harvest cycle (ejecting the cubes), there is a cam inside that rotates along with the ejection "fingers," etc. When it reaches a certain point in the cycle it activates the water valve switch, which sends power to the solenoid valve, opening it to let water come in for the next batch of cubes. It usually remains open for about 5 seconds or so, then closes. However, sometimes this valve doesn't close tightly, and water seeps beyond it. The water trickles into the rear of the ice mold, and eventually overfills it. It could take several hours sometimes, especially when the ice bin is full and the machine isn't cycling. The water will run out the drain hole that is drilled in the side of the ice mold. That's what that is - a drain hole. The solenoid valve should be located, removed (turn off the electric power first - at the circuit breaker, not just via the on-off switch on the machine), disassembled, and cleaned - then reassembled.

The problem is that on the Combo units, the solenoid valve is at the very rear of the machine, and it will have to be pulled out of any cabinetry where it is mounted, to get to it. Another problem: cleaning the valve doesn't always solve the problem and sometimes the valve must be replaced. They aren't all that expensive, and they can call U-Line and order one. They'll ship to just about anywhere in the world. After cleaning and re-installing the valve, it is best to try and run the machine for at least a few hours with the water line connected and turned on, before re-mounting it in the cabinetry - to be sure water isn't still passing through it.

Another possibility is that the water valve switch that activates the solenoid valve may be bad and "stuck on" all the time. However, they'd have a flooding situation if that were the situation, so I doubt that it is the problem. Plus, with the machine only being approx. 5 years old, it isn't likely that the switch has failed this soon. They're normally good for 10(+) years before they start acting up.
 
Vic,
I flew home last night from Puerto Vallarta and left my friends to continue their cruise.
We de-frosted the combo icemaker and I showed them how to open the unit to lubricate everything, as you have previously advised. The unit works well and has not lumped up yet, but it is now being used a lot.
My friends are not members of the forum but I will copy/paste and email your reply.
Many thanks
David
 
I just recently acquired a U Line ice maker in my new to me 93 boat. The ice maker makes ice in a timely fashion (full cycle in just a few minutes) But there is a very small drip, all the way toward the rear of the cube mechanism, on the cube tray side, it drips just enough to put about an inch to an inch and a half of water in the tray. (ultimately it is ice) during the course of filling the bin to the top. I have tried adjusting the cube sizer to the negative, but it didn't seem to make any difference in the cube size (made half turn increments) all I can figure is the excessive city water pressure (80-90 PSI) is too much. Unit is level. Shut off valve doesn't let any water pass after filling tray. There is no additional water after the bin is full and ceases making ice.

Also the black finish is flaking off of the cub mold, looks like paint chips on the surface of the cubes, what are those chips ?
 
Hi Bob; yes the water pressure is about twice what it should be, and my guess is that it's overfilling the mold. The water fill is timed by a rotating cam when the maching is going through the ejection cycle. So with twice the water pressure that you should have, you're going to get much more water into the mold during the same elapsed time. You'll need to get a pressure regulator on the incoming water supply to the boat. Pressure that high is unsafe, and it could also cause a line on the boat to break or pop loose. The regulator will knock the pressure down to the standard 40-50 PSI. They aren't all that expensive, see following links:

http://www.boatfix.com/bypage2index.asp?page=588
http://www.boatfix.com/catalog/588.pdf

The black chips are from the epoxy lining inside the ice mold. This is caused by winterized the machine in the past with RV anti-freeze.

No anti-freeze of any kind should ever be used to winterize an icemaker, as it attacks the epoxy lining of the mold. Your mold needs to be replaced. Eventually, you'll start getting flecks of aluminum oxide from the mold captured inside your ice cubes. Consumption of too much aluminum is one of the suspected causes of Alzheimer's disease.

Correct Winterization: The machine should have the water supply disconnected from it, and the plastic tube removed from the bottom of the water supply valve. The machine should then be allowed to run for about 2 hours without any water attached to it. Turn the machine off and allow the inside to thaw. Wipe up any moisture that results from the inside thawing. Then prop the door open at least an inch, and leave the machine dry for the winter.

In the spring, reconnect both lines to the water supply valve and restore power to the machine.
 
Hello Vic, and thanks for your reply. I am assuming that replacing the mold tray is going to be a job that requires disconnecting & evacuating of refrigeration lines and then re attaching same ??

The ice maker has been removed from the boat and is in my shop (hence the high water pressure). If repairing it requires disconnecting the refrigeration lines and a lot of parts expense, then I am going to see if my appliance parts supplier has any suggestions for a epoxy coating or similar that may extend the life of the mold, even if I have to re coat it every season or two.

I am glad you made me aware of the potential hazards of ingesting aluminum.

All else fails, i will have a nice sized ICE Cream freezer. Not near as cool as an ice maker though.

Thanks Bob
 
Bob, actually no. On a U-Line machine, it's just a matter of unbolting the existing mold assembly, removing it and bolting in the new one. The refrigeration lines don't get distrubed (only on the Raritan-built units). The only thing is that there is a complete wiring harness on a U-Line unit that needs to be spliced back into the original harness. But the wires are all color-coded, so it shouldn't be too daunting of a job. Your best bet would be to replace the complete icemaker unit that goes inside the machine, rather than just the mold and heater unit. A ballpark guess for the cost is somewhere around $150.00 for the complete icemaker unit.

Note: on the newer Raritan-built icemakers, it is no longer necessary to disturb the refrigeration lines when replacing the icemaker unit inside the machine. The change went into effect about a year ago.
 
Vic, once again a big thank you. My RV place that I obtain parts from had told me refrigeration lines were going to be an issue. When I called back, the parts guy this time asked one of the technicians, and they repeated what you said. No refrigeration line issues.

So now the RV place had to call the parts distributor to get part info. And I am waiting for a return call. The tenative price I was quoted was $257.50 for the complete assembly. I am losing faith in the RV place, so I will be trying somewhere else for the part.

But that is just the way it is in so many places these days. It's like going to Auto Zone or any of those franchise auto parts stores. (the exception around here seems to be NAPA, but I think they are mostly independently owned). If it ain't on the computer screen, then it doesn't exist.

I will keep you posted.

Thanks Again, Bob
 
Wow!!! That price sounds pretty inflated...

Bob, try calling one of these two places (Indiana):

All Brand Parts
800-252-7500

Appliance Parts Depot
800-527-2343
 
OK, I ordered the part today from Appliance Parts Depot, $165.00 plus about 8 bucks shipping. Said they had 40- or 50 in stock. I tried to remove this assembly to lube, clean and see if I could determine the source of the leak a few weeks ago. Couldn't see how to get it apart very far, and I was convinced that the refrigeration tubes were soldered to it, so I stopped. When I receive the new assembly I will be able to see exactly how it all is attached.

Any secrets to removal ?
 
3 screws under the mold; 2 screws that hang it to the inside of the cabinet on the left side. Then, you'll need a putty knife to pry it loose from the evaporator "shelf." There will be "alumilastic" sealant between the evaporator shelf and the bottom of the ice mold unit. Simply reuse what is already there.

Note: the thermostat probe comes in from the rear of the machine, into a small tube that is part of the ice mold unit - be careful not to bend this tube when handling the ice mold unit. You must have access to the rear of the machine, to pull out the thermostat probe from the rear. Then there's the issue of the wires. They also, are spliced in from the rear of the machine. When re-installing the thermostat probe, push it all the way in, until it "bottoms" inside the tube.
 
Vic:

Just an update. . . . received the new ice maker assembly. Hope to install it this weekend. Also it came with a large tube of Alumilastic sealer to make installation easier. Thanks.
 
Vic,
Need to join in this rather long thread of U-LIne problems. I have a model 95 Ice maker and it will not cool the box at all. When I first power it up the fan will run for a minute or two then stop. The cube harvester in the box is slightly warm to the touch and can feel the slight vibration, thus unit is getting power. There is no sound from the compressor or motor as I have the front panel grill removed and can hear the fan behind for a short minute but that's it.
Any ideas as to what is failing?
tks
cc
 
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