Winterize Water System

quote:
Originally posted by JVM225

Looks good, but how do you direct the air from the little 12 volt compressor in to that nipple?

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The nipple acts like the air valve on a tire...Put the valve from the air source over the nipple...
 
I connect my air compressor to the hose that goes from the tank to the pump. I disconnect it from the tank, and connect my air compressor. That way the water is purged from the pump as well as the rest of the system. I have been doing this for five years with no ill effects.
eric
 
Think I mentioned this once before, but. . . if you feel a need to put some anti freeze in your fresh water tank, use a couple of bottles of cheap vodka. My last boat was a 27 Dancer, that's all I ever used (Bypassed the water heater) Just like everyone else I ran faucets, believe me you CAN tell when the booze flows. Flush the tank once or twice in the spring and you're good to go. Of course if MNO, buy good vodka and have a party on tap in the spring.

My Chris has a 70 Gal fresh water tank (unlike my 30 Gallon in the old Dancer) So I'm not sure how much vodka it would take to get a flow from the tank to the pump to the faucets, so I'm going to try the air compressor on this 'new to me' boat.
 
Agree that vodka is better than the pink in the water tanks, that pink is nasty stuff, takes forever to flush out.
 
Ok, I spent a little time in Lowe's this rainy evening and came up with a way to go from the City water inlet on the boat to a small Black and Decker Air Compressor that works either off 12 Volt or regular electric. I found fittings to take me from 3/4 Garden Hose (City Water side) down to a 3/16 Barb. I got a couple of feet of 3/16 tubing and plan to connect the air compressor to that.
First I'll drain all the water out of the fresh water tank through the faucets, then I'll drain the hot water heater. I'll hook up the air to the City Water side with everything closed. When the pressure gets to about 50 PSI I'll start opening the faucets furthest away and closing each when air comes out before moving to the next one down the line.
I think that will be a pretty good start if I can get enough air pressure out of the little tire inflator.
Next, I'll pour about 8 gallons of -50 AF (Pink Stuff) in to the fresh water tank and then repeat the process of opening the faucets (furthest away first) and closing each when the pink stuff comes out, including the fresh water outlet back in the cockpit.
I realize that I'll be filling my 6 gallon hot water heater with pink stuff for the winter, but I don't really care about the extra few gallons and I never ever drink from the boats faucets. Besides, I think it isn't such a bad idea to take advantage of the anti corrision qualities of the pink stuff in mt hot water heater over the winter.
Any thoughts or advice?
 
The pink will do damage to your water heater.

I wouldn't bother with the pink, just make sure your water pump is purged of water and your main water tank is drained.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Robyns Nest

The pink will do damage to your water heater.

I wouldn't bother with the pink, just make sure your water pump is purged of water and your main water tank is drained.

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OK, I guess I can do it the way I said I would so that I make sure the pink goes through the pump and then drain the water heater after I'm done. I have a drain valve on the bottom of the heater, so I can recover the pink that comes out and use it to do my A/C and waste tank. I really don't want to put a by-pass on the water heater if I don't have to because I don't want to mess with those fittings, and I really don't want any additional fittings or lines on there which increase the potential for leaks or problems down the road. I think it's always best to keep things simple.
But, I really don't understand how the pink can cause damage to the water heater with it's anti-corrosion proerties.
This is the first year I'm doing this boat. Prior to this I wintered in a boatyard that required that they do all the winterization, and I'm pretty sure they ran the pink through the water heater. I know that there was never a bypass on it, and that they never opened up the water line fittings on it.
 
You don't need a bypass for the water heater if you don't use the pink stuff. The air will fill and pressurize it. After I drain my water heater I fill the lines with air and it also fills the water heater, I then drain the water heater at the bottom valve until I get all the water out. When doing it I open and close the bottom valve a few time to repressurize it and drain again, been doing it this way for 4 years now, make this one 5 ;) I only use the pink stuff in my engine block and the toilet and the tank the toilet pumps to after having it pumped out.
 
It makes sense from a financial standpoint to use air, but I still don't see the damage the pink stuff with anti-corrosion properties can cause to the water heater.
 
The people at my marina told me not to use antifreeze in the heater... and yes it saves you money too. Best thing would be to check with your marina and ask what they would recommend, they may have a different opinion. Mine has not been an issue from draining it without antifreeze. Good luck :)
 
quote:
Originally posted by Robyns Nest

It attacks the heater element.

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Ok! I'll take your word for it and either by-pass the heater, or winterize the whole system including the heater with the AF, and then drain the A/F out of the heater and use it to do the A/C, Head, and bilge pumps.
 
quote:
Originally posted by whitecrystal1

The people at my marina told me not to use antifreeze in the heater... and yes it saves you money too. Best thing would be to check with your marina and ask what they would recommend, they may have a different opinion. Mine has not been an issue from draining it without antifreeze. Good luck :)

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Thanks. I'm not in a marina anymore. I bought s piece pf property on a canal this year and I keep the boat there now. The boatyard I was in up until now required that they perform all of the winterization so this is the first time I'm doing the water systems and AC on this boat.
It doesn't look like the fittings on the water heater have ever been touched so I'm assuming that either he left AF in there, or more likely he drained it out of the heater and used it elsewhere after he got done with the Fresh Water.
 
Ok. I bought the adapter from Wally-Mart, drained the entire system, and used my little Black and Decker tire inflator to blow it out.
It was time consuming with the little compressor, but it got the job done.
I brought the system up to 50 PSI and then opened the furthest (galley) faucet. I had to repeat this a second time just to get it all out. I then kept bringing it back up to 50 PSI and worked my way back to the head, shower, hot water heater, and finally the fresh water wash down.
The biggest PIA is closing the system, and waiting for it to get back up to 50 PSI.
The boat is still in the water and should be coming out in the next week or two. When it comes out I'll finish the job.
I know that I can just leave it the way it is and it will be fine, but I'm a little anal and wouldn't mind the peace of mind the AF provides just in case there is water still in the pump or in the very bottom of the tank. Like I've said before; I never use the fresh water sytem for drinking and don't care what the water tastes like.
I have a few cases of the AF on hand anyway.
I haven't decided yet if I'll use 8 gallons of AF, turn on the faucets till it comes out, and then drain and recover the 6 gallons in the HW heater for use in the head and the bilge pumps. Or, if I'm going to temporarily by-pass the HW heater and do the system with just a couple of gallons of AF.
I did buy a HW heater bypass kit, but I don't think I'm going to use it. First of all I don't want to add any more conections than is absolutely necessary because every connection is a potential problem, and secondly the valves that came with the kit look a little restrictive and I don't want to lose HW pressure.
 
You should go to your water pump and disconnect both sides and let it drain. Let those 2 hoses drain. If you have some water left over at the very bottom it will have plenty of room to expand without causing damage.
 
Wanted to weigh in on a couple of things. On our Bayliner Ciera 2550, I've been winterizing with pink in the water heater for more than a decade. Early this season, the water heater (new 10 years ago) quit. Since it's difficult to access, I replaced the thermostat, the thermal cut-out sensor and the element. The element was in excellent condition and still okay. The problem was with the thermal cut-out device.

We now have a Carver Santego 3467, and I'm considering an engine compartment heater (we're on the Chesapeake Bay in Maryland). Good idea? Recommendations?

I'm finding some great tips and advice on this reflector. Thanks!

Rick
 
Before we lose sight of the debate about winterizing with air, I want to post my results.

New boat, no pink stuff used in fresh water system.
Used air to blow out all lines including ice maker, water heater, etc.
Boat has been in water for 3 weeks now, all systems work fine, ice tastes great.

We did have a very cold winter and to prove it I accidently left a case of soda in a sealed area in mid cabin, all cans froze and exploded, big mess to clean up, but no damage or stains anywhere, so no big deal.

I was always skeptical using air as I was afraid if any water got into lines or moisture it would freeze and crack.

Well, that is not the case.

Save your pink, use air!
 
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